Chateau Margaux 1995

"Bottled very late (November, 1997), the 1995 has continued to flesh out, developing into one of the great classics made under the Mentzelopoulos regime. The color is opaque ruby/purple. The nose offers aromas of licorice and sweet smoky new oak intermixed with jammy black fruits, licorice, and minerals. The wine is medium to full-bodied, with extraordinary richness, fabulous equilibrium, and hefty tannin in the finish. In spite of its large size and youthfulness, this wine is user-friendly and accessible. This is a thrilling Margaux that will always be softer and more evolved than its broader-shouldered sibling, the 1996. How fascinating it will be to follow the evolution of both of these vintages over the next half century. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2040."

"This still broods seriously, with dark plum, currant and blackberry fruit, studded with charcoal, singed tobacco and cedar notes and backed by a serious grip of roasted earth. The gorgeously long finish is driven by old-school tannins, with the smoldering edge going on and on. A brick house of a Margaux, with more charcoal than graphite, more austerity than elegance and more power than refinement."

"The 1995 Château Margaux is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years. This bottle showed well, even if it was pipped to the post by the 1995 Ducru-Beaucaillou on the night. It has a youthful bouquet with more red fruit than previous bottles, infused with freshly rolled tobacco and pencil box, crushed violet and hints of rose petal. The palate is armed with filigree tannins that frame the pure black fruit, hints of blue fruit surfacing towards the second half. Certainly its velvety texture instantly seduces and the poise on the finish is exquisite. This clearly has plenty in the tank, as it has not rushed headlong into its secondary phase. Tasted at the "Vintage Pairs" dinner at Club Bâtard in Hong Kong."

"A surprise. Initially deceived by its light colour, I was taken by the beguiling intensity of plummy fruit aromas with hints of smoke, earth and a first suggestion of truffle or forest floor. The texture is softening now – supple and silky, but still surprisingly dense. Shows restraint and elegance, but holds on regally at the finish which augurs well for extended ageing. This classic year should not be overlooked – it is now coming into its own and should continue to improve for decades."